MARTA Summer Shirt (eng)

The MARTA Summer Shirt is an airy, fluffy mohair shirt with 3 sleeve variations. Without sleeves it looks like a shirt from the 80s and can also be worn as a slipover with a t-shirt or blouse underneath. With short or 3/4 sleeves and a top or summer dress underneath, it warms you up in the early morning or evening hours in summer.
 
Sizes

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Needle size

Gauge

Pattern

Wool type

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Number of threads

Collar

Technique

Difficulty

3 = Intermediate

8,00  inkl. MwSt.

DESCRIPTION

The MARTA Summer Shirt is a short mohair blouse with a boat neckline. It is worked from the top, in one piece, and can be knitted sleeveless, or with short or ¾ sleeves. All hems are finished with an i-cord.

You will work increases at the shoulder yokes for the front and back pieces, and short rows to shape the front and back necklines. After the shoulder yoke, you’ll separate the work into front and back pieces, which you will work separately with decreases. You will join back and front again under the armholes to work the body in the round.

You will pick up stitches around the armhole to work a short or ¾ sleeve, in the round, or to cast off immediately with the i-cord if you are working a sleeveless version.

These detailed pattern instructions contain technical sketches describing the position the turning stitches for the short rows at front and back, a detailed sketch of the model with all measures and dimensions, as well as a blank sketch for your notes and conversions.

Feel inspired by all the wonderful projects on Ravelry or on Instagram.

FIT

2/5
Positive Ease between 20-24 cm

Difficulty

3/5
top-down, short rows, increases at the shoulder yoke

Details

SIZES / MEASUREMENTS

All instructions throughout the pattern written for sizes XS (S) M (L) XL (XXL)

The model in the photo is 164 cm tall and wears a size XS, for a bust circumference of 85 cm.

MEASUREMENTS OF THE FINISHED PIECE:

Bust circumference: 100 (106) 114 (126) 134 (146) with a 20 – 24 cm positive ease

Sleeve circumference 44.5 (47.5) 49 (51) 54 (58.5) with a 18.5 – 20 cm positive ease

Neckline width 31.5 (31.5) 32 (32.5) 32.5 (33) cm

Single width of the body 50 (53) 57 (63) 67 (73) cm

Single width of the sleeves 21.5 (23) 24 (25) 26 (28.5) cm

Sleeve length (without the i-cord) 9.5 cm

Total length (from the shoulder, without the i-cord) 51 (53.5) 56 (59) 61 (65.5) cm

The model in the photo is 164 cm tall with a chest measurement of 85 cm and is wearing the following MARTA Summer Shirts:
Silkhair 2-thread in “Rosa” (085) and “Zartlila” (087) without sleeves size XS.
Brigitte No. 3 1-thread in “Fliederrosa” (07) and “Oliv” (14) striped size M.
Silkhair 2-thread in “Rosa” (085) and “Lila” (173) with colour gradient size M.

PATTERN AND KNITTING GAUGE

The blouse is knit in stocking stitch. In back and forth: knit on right side rows, purl on wrong side rows. In the round: knit on every round.

For an even stitch pattern, I use a smaller needle size for the purl rows when working back and forth:

with 2 threads, a 7 mm needle for the knit rows and a 6.5 mm for the purl rows, and a 7 mm needle when working in the round:

10 x 10 cm = 13 sts x 18 rows

WOOL AND AMOUNTS

Silkhair from Lana Grossa (70 % Mohair (Superkid), 30 % Silk approx. 210 m/25 g)

Color: 1 thread of Rose (085) and 1 thread of Pale Lilac (087)

The converted weight of the yarn per 1 meter, using 2 threads, is: 0,24 g/m

AMOUNTS

The total yarn requirements for sizes XS (S) M (L) XL (XXL) are:

Variant 1 (sleeveless)

4 (4) 5 (5) 6 (6) skeins
100 (100) 125 (125) 150 (150) g
840 (840) 1050 (1050) 1260 (1260) m

Variant 2 (short sleeves)

4 (5) 5 (6) 6 (7) skeins
100 (125) 125 (150) 150 (175) g
840 (1050) 1050 (1260) 1260 (1470) m

Variant 3 (3/4 sleeves)

5 (6) 6 (7) 7 (8) skeins
125 (150) 150 (175) 175 (200) g
1050 (1260) 1260 (1470) 1470 (1680) m

ALTERNATIVE YARNS

(1) Any mohair-silk blend that has a similar meterage (appr. 210 m/25 g).
(2) Brigitte No. 3 by Lana Grossa (40 % Mohair, 37 % Wool, 23 % Polyamide), appr. 100 m/25 g), 1 strand (0,25 g/m)
(3) Manada by Pascuali (45% Superkid mohair, 25% mulberry silk, 15% virgin wool (organic merino), 15% yak wool, 200 m/25 g), 2 strands (0,25 g/m)
Yarn without mohair:
(4) Midnatssol by Camarose (54 % Alpaca, 36 % Tencel, 10 % Wool, 200m/25g), 2 strands (0,25 g/m)
(5) SetaSuri by Lana Grossa (69% Suri Alpaca, 31% Silk, ca. 212 m/25 g) 2 strands (0,24 g/m)

NEEDLES

A 6 mm circular needle for the temporary cast-on, the 1st row and the short rows at the beginning of the neckline

Circular needles for the basic stockinette stitch pattern:

Short (10 cm) needle points 5, 6 and 7 mm, with a 20-35 cm long cable

Long (13 cm) needle tips 6.5 and 7 mm, with a 80-100 cm long cable

A 5 mm needle for the i-cord

NOTIONS

8 large stitch markers, suitable for 6- and 7-mm needles:

  • 4 markers in color 1 – to mark increases shoulder yoke
  • 4 markers in color 2 – to mark the shoulder stitches

2 locking stitch markers to hook to a stitch

A 4 – 5 mm crochet hook for the temporary cast-on

A tapestry needle, and scrap yarn for temporary cast-on

Scrap yarn or extra cables to leave stitches on hold

KNITTING TECHNIQUES

Provisional cast-on with a crochet hook

Knit and purl stitches

 

Increases inclined to the left and to the right in right and wrong side rows, when working back and forth

Decreases inclined to the right

German Short Rows

Picking up stitches from the knit (for the sleeves)

Binding off with an i-cord

Videos for step 1 and close i-cord/grafting: http://www.lotilda.de/marta-summer-shirt-links

TIP: If you are not familiar with any of the techniques used here, practice on a small piece of knitting, which saves you from annoying unravelling the model.